A quick note before I begin, Part Two I will get to later as there is a bit of a story but I will get back to Part Two during Part Four. For now it’s straight onto the Milford Track.
“These boots were made for walking and that’s just what they’ll do”
Day One
I woke up both excited and nervous about starting the 57km (33.9 Mile) Milford Track as once I boarded the 9am coach with my packed bag there was no going back. I arrived at The Station building in Queenstown to meet my fellow walkers and 2 of the guides for the trip. After some quick introductions we then boarded the bus and headed out to Te Anau for lunch. In Te Anau we picked up 2 more guides and then it was back on the bus and a quick drive out to the boat that would take us across Lake Te Anau and to the start of the Milford Track.
Day One was an easy 1.7km to Glade House where we would get our first taste of what it was like to do a guided walk of the track. Let me tell you it did not disappoint! I got a bunk room to myself as the tour was not full and I was the only person travelling solo so that gave me some privacy which was an added bonus. Before dinner we worked up an appetite by doing a 5km bush walk around the Glade House area where our guides pointed out local flora and fauna and we all filled our water bottles in a stream. The water in Fiordland National Park is not contaminated and is completely safe to drink not to mention nicely chilled. Back at Glade House we all gathered for dinner. I would like to say that I did it rough but… Entrée of Kumera and Pumpkin Soup, Main of Venison Stew with Mash and Vegetables and a Dessert of Apple Struddle with Vanilla Ice Cream all washed down with a glass of wine! Not a bad way to start at all!
Day 2
Day 2 was the day the real walking began, a 16km walk from Glade House to Pompolona that started at 8:30am.
This part of the walk took us through the Clinton Valley and only has a total incline of about 200 metres. The Clinton Valley track took us along the Clinton River and through some historical sights such as 2 Mile Hutt used by Quintin MacKinnon back in the 1800’s. During this part of the walk I got to talk to Jules our lead guide and 2 of our younger members Oliver and Meg as we set the pace up front. After a quick stop for lunch we continued the rest of our walk to Pompolona in spectacular weather.
At Pompolona we had scones, as is the tradition. When Quintin MacKinnon took the first walkers along the Milford Track he would serve them scones partly made from mutton fat at Pompolona Hut. I think the recipe has changed a bit since then as our scones were delicious! That night it was Smoked Salmon, Chicken and Chocolate Cake. It was about this time I decided this would be one of the only walks I would do where I would end up 2 kg’s heavier after finishing instead of 2 kg’s lighter!
Day 3
At 7:30am we set off for what was to be the most demanding day on the track, a 15km walk via MacKinnon Pass. As you can see by this photo it was still a bit dark as we left Pomp.
We had 1 hour of easy going before reaching MacKinnon Pass which has an incline of around 1000 metres over 11 zig zags at about a 1:8 ratio meaning that it takes 8 metres forward to go 1 metre up. Now I thought the zig zag’s were going to be a nice path to follow up but I couldn’t have been more wrong. I was navigating boulders and sharp rocks to reach the top but seeing the monument at the top of the pass was such a great feeling!
Unfortunately we were all clouded in and the view was of a white blanket so I don’t have any great photos of views. I had reached the top and made it up in good time, surely the hard part was over! How wrong I was. Going down the other side of the pass was so jarring on my knees that it had me wishing I was going uphill again! Thankfully we were rewarded with Cascade Falls.
This time myself, Oliver, Meg, their younger sister Bella and their Mum, Kathryn and Dad, Andrew were the first group to make it to Quintin Lodge at 2.20pm. We had a quick rest here before taking another walk to Sutherland Falls, New Zealand’s highest waterfall at 580 metres! Once we reached the falls we all took a walk underneath it and what a great experience that was! It was noisy and wet but the energy of the waterfall was totally invigorating. If you ever get a chance to walk under a waterfall please do it! At Sutherland Falls we even came across a pair of endangered Blue Ducks, otherwise known as ‘Whio’.
Back at the lodge it was Mushroom Soup, Steak and Ice Cream but not for all of us. The day had taken it’s toll on some of our group and after a 7:30am start, the last 2 groups got in at 7:30pm and 8:30pm so I think it was an outstanding effort for them to make it to the end and not give up! Walking down that track in the dark could not have been easy.
Day 4
Ahh, the last day of walking… Just a casual 21km, otherwise known as a half marathon. This morning we had another 7:30am start and a bit of drizzle to go along with it.
This last leg had us in the Arthur Valley following along the Arthur River. Some highlights of this leg was the MacKay Falls and Bell Rock. This valley was a lot greener than the Clinton Valley and had a lot more birdlife. The terrain was flat and gentle, a nice change from the previous day. Just after morning tea things started to clear up.
Once again it was Oliver, Meg and myself leading the pack and we passed the time between mile markers by playing “What animal would you be?” and “How long do you think it will take us to reach the next Mile Marker?” Soon enough we had reached Giants Gate Falls for lunch where Bella, Kathryn and Andrew caught up with us. It was then onto the final 5kms to Sandfly Point and…
WE MADE IT!! We arrived at Sandfly Point at 2:20pm which gave us time to have a Milo before catching the 3pm boat to Milford Sound and Mitre Peak Lodge. Interesting fact: The above sign is incorrect. DOC measured the Milford Track a few years ago and found it to be 33.9 miles instead of 33.5 miles as thought but the sign is pretty cool so they haven’t bothered to change it.
At Mitre Peak Lodge we had a celebratory dinner of Vegetable Soup, Rack of Lamb and Chocolate Fondant followed by a certificate presentation!
Day 5
But I thought we had finished? Yes, we had finished walking but we still had one last experience – A boat cruise around Milford Sound.
What a beautiful place Milford Sound is!!
I think the thing that most stood out for me over the 5 days was the sheer size of the mountains and the arctic blue colour of the incredibly clean water that is in the area. It is pristine and I really hope it stays that way.
After our cruise we got back on the bus and made our way back to Queenstown where we all swapped email addresses and said our goodbyes. I had a truly amazing walk with a funny, kind, and caring bunch of people that made the trip unforgettable and kept me going even when my feet and knees were sore!
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